UPDATE – A reader sent me the following comment, I wanted to share since I wouldn’t want to recommend something that’s a potential safety hazard. ![]() Here is the outlet now, it looks so much cleaner than it did before. These new covers are also supposed to be unbreakable, which is nice considering I’ve broken my fair share by screwing them in too tightly. If you plan ahead and cut your planks (or beadboard, or tile) accordingly you can use the same covers…we didn’t plan ahead though. I purchased new ones that are 3/8 inch larger than normal so that all the edges will be hidden. The final step is to add the outlet cover. Here’s the outlet at the new level, that black abyss behind it is the spacers. Next you place the spacer between the two screw holes and screw it tightly in place.Īlthough, if you added enough depth the original screw won’t be long enough, so will have to buy longer ones. You can also buy them on Amazon, they are really overpriced but you don’t have to go on a scavenger hunt to find them.Īnyway, each section of the spacer is a 1/8 inch, you just snap them together until you find the right depth and cut off the excess. BTW, by “find the right depth” I actually mean do a long series of guess and check while using your teeth to repeatedly snap and unsnap them. Every employee looked at me like I had two heads when I tried to explain what I was looking for, and finally a heroic fellow customer knew what I was talking about and found them for me. I bought mine at Home Depot – but I had to drive to three different ones to find them (you can’t buy them online). Here is the secret to flush outlets…this little plastic doodad called and electrical spacer (or outlet extender). (I don’t have one, but buying a voltage tester is a good idea.) ![]() My breakers are labeled correctly, but I assumed that everything in their room would be on the same one….which isn’t the case. ![]() This is why double and triple checking is so important. So I went back to the breaker box and looked around…turns out the outlets in that room are on a different breaker than the switches. I plugged in a lamp and it came on, which meant the outlets still had power going to them. I went and grabbed a lamp to double-check everything. What I did was flip on the overhead light in the boy’s room and switch off the assigned breaker, which caused the light to go off. I know y’all know this, but I have to stress it anyway….you must be SO EXTREMELY careful with anything electrical because if you do it wrong it can kill you. In fact, there is a really easy fix for it.įirst thing you’re going to want to do is turn off power to the areas you will be working on. The great thing about being a serial DIYer (or a DIY blog reader!) is that you are always learning new things, and while planking the boy’s room I learned that no one expects you to leave your outlets cut around and unfinished looking. We ended up just cutting the planks around the current outlets and leaving them like that. It never really bothered me…but I never liked it either. For additional information concerning fire ratings and fire safety, visit our Product Fire, Safety and Use Information page.Two years ago when Adam and I planked our kitchen we had no idea what to do around the outlets and switches. In the event of an actual fire, you should immediately take any and all actions necessary for your safety and the safety of others without regard for any fire rating of any product or assembly/system. *FIRE SAFETY CAUTION – Passing a fire test in a controlled laboratory setting and/or certifying or labeling a product as having a one-hour, two-hour, or any other fire resistance or protection rating and, therefore, as acceptable for use in certain fire rated assemblies/systems, does not mean that either a particular assembly/system incorporating the product, or any given piece of the product itself, will necessarily provide one-hour fire resistance, two-hour fire resistance, or any other specified fire resistance or protection in an actual fire. 1ġConsult UL Fire Resistance Directory for assembly information. These plasters form a surface that is much harder than typical gypsum wall board, making it less prone to dents and scratches. ToughRock® Veneer Plaster Base board and ToughRock® FireGuard X® Veneer Plaster Base are designed to bond with skim coats of specially formulated veneer plasters.
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